Eye on Additive Eyewear: 3D Printing at MYKITA

In this Eye on Additive Eyewear series, we’ve previously examined 3D printing at Materialise and luxury group LVMH. Today, we’re taking a detailed look at a 3D printing application that, while economically and conceptually sound, has never fully met expectations. Companies first attempted to commercialize 3D printed eyewear around 2010, with industry efforts in 2015 and startups emerging in 2019. Despite these efforts, and continuous innovation from companies like Hoya and Materialise, widespread success has remained elusive. Now, we turn our focus to MYKITA and their use of 3D printing in eyewear.

MYKITA

MYKITA, a relatively new eyewear company founded in 2003, is unique in the industry for manufacturing its own eyewear at the MYKITA Haus in Berlin. Unlike many competitors, MYKITA does not outsource to the eyewear cluster in Italy or low-cost suppliers in Asia, choosing instead to pursue in-house manufacturing. This approach could make them more responsive, rapid, and agile. In-house manufacturing could lead to two potential outcomes: the company might resist adopting 3D printing due to established processes and internal preferences, or it could fully embrace 3D printing by integrating it as they have other processes. We expect high-end, avant-garde, manufacturing-focused companies like MYKITA to adopt 3D printing most quickly.

MYKITA offers both steel and plastic framed glasses, with their plastic frames often made from acetate. Acetate is machined and polished from multiple layers of cellulose cut to form the final product. This fabrication process requires substantial manual machining and polishing, but the material is traditionally well-regarded for its durability and cachet. Alternatives to acetate include photopolymers and other resin materials made in molds, or molded thermoplastic materials. These alternatives are generally considered less artisanal and result in a less long-lasting product. Acetate’s continued desirability is due to its strength and flexibility, allowing it to better resist shocks, bumps, and general wear compared to many other materials.

The process of manufacturing acetate and thin steel framed glasses is significant to MYKITA and represents a major cost factor for the firm. MYKITA is highly innovative in its designs, some of which are quite unconventional and generally more cutting-edge than many other suppliers. The company owns 17 stores worldwide and maintains tight control over many aspects of its business. While MYKITA sells through retailers, possibly up to 3,000, these are typically the most high-end and avant-garde boutiques in each locale. These boutiques may carry brands like the exquisitely crafted Matsuda, US-based Moscot, and Lindberg, rather than more common brands such as Ray-Ban. MYKITA focuses on placements and advertisements in high-end publications, particularly those related to design. The company collaborates with niche fashion brands rather than pursuing fleetingly popular streetwear brands or large retailers.

Critics might view MYKITA as having a certain snobbishness. However, the brand excels in design, and its products, while expensive, are exceptionally well made. The company is committed to quality and environmental sustainability, using recycled steel in its products, for example.

MYKITA & 3D Printing

MYKITA is a true 3D printing pioneer, having introduced 3D printed eyewear in 2010. The company uses powder bed fusion in combination with a proprietary compounded blend of polyamide to create its collections. This material and series of collections are called MYLON. MYKITA was attracted to the ability to make glasses in-house using a potentially sustainable process. The lightweight and durable polyamide 3D printed frames allow the company to produce frames more efficiently than with acetate. MYKITA manufactures frames and components using MYLON and has also developed its own post-processing and coloring techniques. Additionally, the company has combined MYLON and steel frames in some models.

I’m really impressed by MYKITA’s engagement with 3D printing. As a privately held company, MYKITA has done well but is not a huge enterprise, so it had to invest carefully in this process. I appreciate how they didn’t just create one model or collection; instead, the company made the effort to develop its own material. This will provide great advantages in the long run, allowing them to save on costs by compounding their own material. They can also enhance the material for superior UV shielding and better coloring. From a conceptual viewpoint, having their own material is appealing.

The company’s 3D printed glasses are regularly updated with new models, demonstrating their commitment to learning how to harness 3D design and production. Their focus on post-processing and coloring is commendable. One major issue with 3D printing is achieving the right surface finish, proper resurfacing for dyeing, and consistent dyeing and surface quality results. Achieving bright colors and long-lasting finishes, along with repeatability, has been a significant challenge in 3D printing. MYKITA seems to have zeroed in on these critical aspects of 3D printing. By developing internal expertise in finishing and coloring, they could gain long-term advantages over competitors.

At one point, the brand was working on a MyOwnMykita product, which aimed to use 3D scanning and personalized parts. However, this initiative seems to be on the back burner for now. Despite this, MYKITA is forging ahead with new collections. I really appreciate how this relatively small niche player has empowered itself with 3D printing. By developing their own material and continually updating their product line, the company is truly making significant strides in the eyewear industry.