ELSTM Introduces 3D Printed Sneakers, $250 a Pair

ELSTM has released the Orca, a shoe made with various 3D printed materials. It features a foaming TPU midsole, a mesh upper, and an outer TPU shell. The midsole also incorporates another unnamed plastic.

“The Orca is an answer to the trend of fully 3D-printed shoes that I’ve had a hand in shaping. While it’s satisfying to think about shoes being grown in 3D printer farms like potatoes, at some point I grew tired of them. Instead, I wanted something clean, premium and truly comfortable. I wanted the best 3D-printed shoe on Earth, regardless of the production challenges involved. After wearing The Orca every day for two months, I can hardly see myself going back to 3D-printed “potato shoes.” This reinforced my belief that true footwear innovation comes from the synergy of cutting-edge technology and craftsmanship, integrating the best of both worlds, without needing to declare war on the past,” said ELSTM CEO Robert Karklinsh.

The sneaker is 3D printed and assembled in California, with LaLaLand Production & Design, based in LA, serving as the production partner. ELSTM hopes their sneakers will contribute to more sustainable footwear solutions. The sneakers are available for order at $250, with expected shipping within one month. Last year, the company produced the SHOE1. ELSTM uses foaming TPU pellets for many shoe components, a more cost-effective option than filament. Foaming TPU allows for variations in flexibility and softness across different areas of the shoe. Combined with lattice structures, this gives designers significant freedom to enhance comfort. Temperature and foaming properties can be adjusted per layer, and lattices can be incorporated at specific points or across the shoe.

In 2021, Robert experimented with the Unitruder pellet extruder and began testing foaming materials. He decided to leave his PhD program to start his shoe company. In a post, he outlined his goal: “To make fully 3D printed footwear mass adopted, we need to produce at the same cost as Nike ($25 per pair). And our footwear needs to be as comfortable, light, and durable as Crocs.” He also mentioned that he buys pellets at $7 per kilo. The key advantage of his method is that, “We can print in virtually any hardness. We can print in a wide range of densities, from fully dense materials to densities as low as 0.14 specific gravity. We can print fully 3D printed designs as well as assembled designs.” The company is also developing its own printer to improve shoe production.

Compared to Zellerfeld, ELSTM has less hype and fewer connections in the fashion world. While Zellerfeld and HILOS aim to be platforms for other designs, ELSTM focuses on selling its own. There is significant opportunity in 3D printed footwear, with growing attention around companies like Zellerfeld. However, the race has yet to truly begin. It’s unclear whether major brands like Adidas and Nike will dominate this category or if small startups will rise to challenge them.

I’m a bit confused by this shoe. The joining of disparate materials and parts has always been the biggest issue in making 3D printed shoe components with different processes. It’s clear the company is trying to move forward by constructing shoes that are more traditional in nature, using separate materials for the uppers and midsoles. In the long run, this could lead to shoes that perform as expected and might be the leap forward needed for mass adoption.

But the founder himself mentions Crocs, which are divisive but also transformative. Isn’t now the time to create something completely new and space-aged to make an impact, such as the shoe above? Isn’t it time to showcase truly mind-bending designs? Isn’t this the moment to make memorable shoes that challenge our expectations of what a shoe can be?

To me, the Orca looks cheap. The upper seems uncomfortable, like it might cut into my skin. I don’t think the styling will inspire many, either. On the other hand, I loved the previous shoe, seen in white above. That one looked incredibly comfortable—like the shoe equivalent of a hotel bathrobe. That, to me, was something that could set editorial pages and fashion magazine covers on fire.

Technically, the current shoe may be an engineering step forward, but in terms of growing the market and the company, it feels like a step back.